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Aug 27, 2007 at 11:10 AM

It was just about time to return to rock climbing again, during the last few months of the 10 year long break I took I felt that I was really excited to return to what really enjoyed when I was younger. So it was only logical to stick my stubby fingers into the rocks of the limestone of the Frankenjura when visiting one of my best friends in Bamberg, who started climbing this year.

We had three days, on the first day it rained, so we "just" visited the boulder room of the DAV in Bamberg. Loads of artificial holds, all kinds of steep overhangs and we maltreated our fingers with a chain boulder and I finished them on the campus board :)

Fortunately on the second day, the weather became so much better, so we drove out to the rock called Steinfelder Turm which was very populated on that day (I guess we weren't the only ones being happy about the change of weather!). As the tour I wanted to do (Nordwestkante 6c) was busy when we arrived, we decided to put another one in between (Westwand 6b+) which was kind of a sister of the other one but not so steep. Hehe, and having a SLR with you can be a curse as well, this is me after checking out the 6c without a T-Shirt because the sun was shining very directly on the path on front of the rock. And of course the first official use of my brand new crashpad, they should have invented these way earlier!


The change of plans turned out to be more difficult than expected, there is a tricky sequence where you have to stand up on a slightly overhanging but decent shelf with two huge holds, but then nothing for two meters - that really strained me. I just couldn't figure out how to do these moves in a row before it was too late (finger power ...). So when I finally knew how this had to be done my underarms were already so pumped that even the first moves draw too much power and when I reached the crux, I always fell into the rope 8(


So we did some easier tours on this rock and the area around Steinfeld before we stopped for a bite to eat and drink at the famous Hübner Bräu in Steinfeld. It appears they brew their beer a little different than other breweries do, Philipp and Wolfgang both had two pints of the house brand and instantly became, ahem, kind of detached of what was going on around them :) I remained abstinent as still I don't drink alcohol and was the driver anyway, but that's ok ...

On the last day in Bamberg we went out with Stefan, a friend of Ben and Wolfgang who took us out to the Rote Wand rock - by far the most beautiful rock I know in the Frankenjura! Long steep tours, huge holds and all in all very well secured. After the usual warm up procedure in an amazingly steep 5b and 6a I tried a 6c+/7a line next to the two easier tours that was really adorable. But again, my finger power left me too soon, I really really have to change something about that, so I have a new building site there. I hope to climb this tour in maybe a month or so, that should be enough to work on my underarms a bit. There are no really hard moves in that tour, but putting them in a row is not so simple.


As Philipp managed to climb the 6a we did for warming up really well and Stefan was kind and giddy enough to do the 6c+/7a tour into the overhang and then take some great fotos from there. Usually when taking climbing fotos from the ground you just get an unfavorable "ass picture" as we call them, but when you take them from the side, it looks so much better:


And of course, a nice shot taken on the return to Bamberg, too. I swear the bike was standing exactly where you can see it ... imagine that situation with two slightly drunken good friends ... the girl behind the counter of the gas station was kind of smiling when I finally paid.

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